Monday, June 27, 2011

Fried Pork Ribs

Fried pork chops are a staple of southern home-cooking. Nothing could be easier - just sprinkle salt and pepper over both sides of rib or loin chops, dip them in self-rising flour, and fry in oil, lard, or bacon drippings until brown and a little crispy. Don't over cook, because today's pork is very lean and will dry out if cooked longer than a couple of minutes. You still run the risk of a tough, dry result because the leaner, healthier pig has been stripped of all the fat marbling that made the chops of our childhood so juicy and meltingly tender.

Don't despair - there is a delicious alternative, which is also less expensive and universally available - Boneless Pork Ribs.


FRIED PORK RIBS

Two Servings
Buy 1 1/2 pounds of boneless ribs, which may be labeled as country ribs or boneless loin strips. (They are fingers of boneless pork, up to 1 1/2 inches wide, an inch thick, and around 4 inches long.) Find them in the supermarket pork section where the Boston Butt and Pork Ribs cuts are displayed.
You'll also need:
Self-rising flour - about 1 1/2 cup
A mixture of salt and pepper, garlic powder, onion powder and celery salt
(Or take a short cut and use Morton's Natures Seasoning)
A sprinkle of oregano and/or sage (optional)
Ground cayenne pepper (optional)
Canola Oil
Bacon Drippings (optional)
Buttermilk for marinating (optional step, described below)

To Prepare:
Rinse pork and lay out on wax paper. If the strips are wider than an inch, you may want to cut them in half, lengthwise, so they will cook more uniformly. Sometimes, I butterfly the strips to make a thinner, wider piece - but I usually cut them to look like large French Fries.

Sprinkle heavily with the seasoning mixture you have chosen to use, including cayenne, if desired. Drop the strips into a quart-size storage bag. If you have the time, you can improve flavor and tenderness by pouring 1/2 cup of buttermilk over the strips in the bag. Either way, place the sealed bag in the refrigerator to marinate and absorb seasonings for at least 30 minutes - or several hours, or overnight.

About 30 minutes before beginning to cook the strips, remove the bag from the refrigerator and drain the strips. Mix flour and 1 teaspoon seasoning in a fresh quart bag, drop the strips, 2 or 3 at the time, into the flour, seal bag and shake until strips are well-coated. Arrange the floured strips on a sheet of wax paper. Repeat until all strips are floured. Let the strips rest for a few minutes while the oil heats on medium high (include bacon drippings if you have them).

When the cooking fat is hot enough (a little flour will bubble up vigorously), carefully place one strip into the hot oil. If it begins to bubble around the edges immediately, add more strips but do not crowd the pan. You need to have about 1/2 inch space between each piece to assure a good, crispy crust. Using tongs, turn over the strips when the bottom is brown (about one minute), cover the pan loosely with a piece of foil, and cook the other side until done. Two or three minutes total cooking time is all that you need. The foil is great to reduce splattering and it also speed up cooking. Lift foil to check progress a couple of times, then remove the foil and cook the last few seconds uncovered.

Drain the cooked strips on a rack set over a plate or cooking pan. If you are cooking in more than two batches, keep the cooked strips warm in a 200 degree oven with the door slightly open. Serve hot or at room temperature. Like fried chicken, this is good even when not served immediately, but the warm juices that flow from a 'freshly fried' strip is wonderful. I usually serve these with the same type of sides I'd use with pork chops - try mashed potatoes, peas, and sliced tomato. You can even make some country gravy from the drippings with they aren't too dark, and that is heavenly over rice or mash potatoes.

Double or triple the recipe to feed more people or to have intentional left-overs, which are delicious in a plain-white-bread sandwich the next day.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

How To Cook Southern Vegetables

It's that time again - the wonderful peas and beans that we associate with our grandmothers' home garden are here and they deserve to be cooked the good, old-fashioned way.

Prepare a cooking stock of chicken broth and some sort of pork – bacon, cured ham or fresh pork. (Just simmer the meat in the broth for about an hour, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper – I usually make this up in advance in large batches and freeze it in 1 cup containers for later use) Shell the beans and wash well to remove the sand. You will need enough stock to barely cover the beans – about 1 cup for 2 cups beans. Bring stock to boil, add a dried red pepper (if you like) and add beans. Return to boil, then reduce heat to simmer. After bubbling subsides, cover pot and simmer for about 35 minutes – until beans are soft inside, but not mushy. (If the liquid cooks down too much, you can add a little water.) When you test for doneness, add some salt and pepper if needed. Add a pat of butter to the pot before serving. Don’t throw the cooking liquid away – it is delicious eaten as a light soup or with cornbread.

This works for any kind of summer beans and beans. Butter beans are available in both white and speckled varieties and both are wonderful. They take a long time to shell and it takes about 2 lbs. in shell to get 4 cooked servings, but they are worth it for a special treat. Peas (purple hull, crowders, pink-eyes, black-eyes, white acre, zipper or field peas) are easier to shell and you get more volume for your time, but the taste is not quite as delicate. White butter beans, white acre peas and zipper peas make a clear, light greenish broth; speckled butter beans and the other peas make a darker, richer broth. Personal preferences differ – I like both – and I don’t add the butter pat to the varieties that make the dark broth. Be sure to try the zipper peas – they are easy to shell and close to butter beans in taste.

Most Farmers Markets will offer pre-shelled beans and peas – don’t be tempted – they are shelled by machine and retain a slightly “off” taste, sort of sour, that will not wash away – I think it is because there is a build up of residue in the machine that cleaning and sterilization will not remove. If I can’t get them in the shell, I use the excellent frozen ones available at most supermarkets.

BTW – you can freeze cooked beans and peas and simply reheat when needed – that way you never waste any of the labor it takes to cook them.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Fried Chicken


Nancy and I were exchanging e-mails a while back and I confessed that I do sometimes buy prepared fried chicken at a supermarket deli, KFC or Popeye's. She said she had fond memories of the fried chicken I used to do in huge quantity, so I wrote the directions in a narrative form because it was hard to communicate the step-by-step process in a recipe format. Ido it a little different now than I used to because I have learned some new tricks—so sit back and prepare to read a long explanation.

First, buy Claxton or "natural" chicken if you can (Publix has some pretty good natural chicken for a normal price.) Don’t spring for the organic stuff—it is very expensive and not worth the extra money. Check to see if the chicken has been injected with a saline solution. If so, don’t buy it because the water will leech out during frying, spatter and make the crust soft. (BTW—the saline injection is a good thing for turkey because it eliminates the need to brine the big bird. After brining a turkey about 10 years ago, I switched to Butterball and never looked back.)

Leave the skin on it, rinse under cold water and soak a few hours in buttermilk. Lift the chicken pieces out of the buttermilk and lay on wax paper or foil so you can season all sides really good. Sprinkle with Nature's Seasons, paprika (or cayenne), a little sea salt (regular or the 4S seasoned salt from Penzey's) and black pepper. Let it set for a few minutes, then put about 2 cups self-rising flour in a plastic bag, add a little Nature's Seasons and shake to mix. Then add the chicken pieces a few at the time and shake until totally coated—the residual buttermilk will help the flour adhere. Lay the floured pieces out on wax paper for at least 15 minutes until the coating begins to have moist patches - sort of like library paste. Shake again in flour, or just pat some more flour on if you don't have many pieces, and let it set again for about 10 minutes while the frying fat heats. (Tell Terry not to worry, it won't rot in that short time unrefrigerated.)

You can use lard, solid shortening (like Crisco) or Canola or Safflower Oil in any combination. Lard adds good flavor, but is not good for you and is more likely to feel greasy. Crisco can withstand high heat best and gives a good crisp crust—either oil does a good job and is healthier than solid shortening. I don't use lard much anymore because I just don't keep it on hand, but no matter what else I use, I add about 3 tablespoons of bacon drippings or butter for flavor.

Use a frying pan with a cover —cast iron is best, but a good heavy non-stick pan will work well too. Use enough fat to make a depth of about 1 inch (it should cover just over 1/2 the chicken thickness). Set the burner on high and heat until fat is shimmering (you can test with a bread cube or sprinkle of flour—it will foam up when the oil is hot enough), then reduce to medium high. Add the chicken (bone-in pieces first) skin side down with no pieces touching—cook uncovered about 5 minutes or until bottom develops a tan color and the batter has sealed. Turn over and cook 2 minutes, then cover and cook about 5 minutes. Remove cover, turn over, fry uncovered 2 minutes then cover again and cook 5 minutes. Remove cover and cook a few minutes more, turning once, until both sides are brown and crisp. Somewhere in this process you will add small or boneless pieces so they cook about half as long a bone-in. (This won't be an issue unless you are cooking boneless breasts and legs & thighs - or you have livers and gizzards involved.) My usual mix is 3 legs and 2 boneless breasts, but sometimes I do the whole chicken so we can have a pulley bone and the livers and gizzards. Place cooked pieces on a cake rack set on a cookie sheet to drain. (You can use a paper towel-covered pan, but the underside of the chicken may get a little soggy). Keep warm in a preheated oven at 175 degrees.

This sounds awfully complicated, but it really is quite easy, and the method ensures that the outside will be crispy and sealed tight to keep the juices from leaking out and the fat from getting in. You can remove the thickest piece and check for doneness by piercing next to the bone with a small pointed knife until you get a feel for how long the different kinds of pieces need to cook.

If buttermilk grosses you out, or just for a change, you can brine the chicken for several hours in a mild salt solution (or just sprinkle liberally with salt and put in a plastic bag), then rinse well before doing the seasoning and flouring process. I have also tried adding a beaten egg to milk as a wet dip before the flour, and it is pretty good, but the egg makes a slightly soft crust. If you don't want to leave the skin on, you can remove it (the chicken will lose some moistness and flavor) and let the floured chicken set a little longer to get a good seal in the coating.

Here's the good part - if you can manage to get this all done without any burned drippings, you can drain off the excess fat and make the most wonderful gravy with a little extra flour and some chicken broth. Once in a great while I do this and have it with white rice or mashed potatoes. Speaking of chicken broth - Cook's Illustrated did a test on supermarket canned chicken broth and found that "College Inn" is the most like homemade. I tried it and they are right, it is much better than Campbell's, but the only place I can find that brand is Publix, where they have it in the can and carton, both organic and not.
Update on Chicken Broth - Cook's Illustrated revised their 'best' rating a couple of years ago and now recommends Swanson Natural Organic broth in the asceptic container. Just recently I have discovered two other choices which are even better. Medford Farms Chicken Broth has a deep, rich taste that's perfect to use as a stock for Chicken and Dumplings, gravy, or any braised dish. Kitchen Basics is similar and has a slightly cloudy appearance like rich homemade broth does. Both these latest discoveries may be too rustic for a delicate preparation like risotto, but well worth trying for a sauce or soup. Important - do not waste your money or time on Pacific Chicken Broth - it has a thin, sour taste that will ruin your dish. Strange, because the Pacific Beef Broth is outstanding - closest option I've found in the supermarket for French Onion Soup, Beef Stew, gravies, and general beef stock requirements.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Veal Chop with Glazed Baby Vegetables

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This is a narrative recipe because it is not precise - just get the number of Veal Chops you need and some baby (or young adult) vegetables. I made the dish with one chop, so multiply for the amount you are cooking.

Season the veal chop (at least 1 inch thick – better 1 1/2 in.) with garlic powder or garlic salt and Lemon Pepper and let set for about 30 minutes. The veggies are small red potatoes, some vertical-sliced pieces of onion, baby zucchini, sugar snap peas, small green beans and small carrots. While the veal was waiting to be cooked, I cut the potatoes into quarters and simmered them in a small amount of salted water just until tender – about 10 minutes – and set aside to drain. I didn’t precook the other vegetables. When ready, preheat the oven to 350 - start preheating about 8 minutes ahead, then heat a heavy frying pan over med-high heat. When the frying pan is hot, brush it with olive oil and sear the chop, turning after about 1 ½ minutes. When brown on both sides, remove pan from heat and transfer the chop to a small shallow pan. Place chop in heated oven (it will need to cook for about 5 minutes).

Return frying pan to high heat and pour about ½ cup chicken broth and 2 tbs. sherry into it, scraping up all the good stuff. Add a sprinkle of thyme, the carrots, zucchini, and onions and simmer for about 3 minutes, then add the other veggies. Add 1 tsp Soy Sauce and more broth if it is cooking dry. (The amount of broth, sherry and seasoning will depend somewhat on the number of chops, but don't do a direct multiple or you will have too much sauce - the goal is to be able to cook it down to a syrup. The amount stated for 1 chop should be increased by about 20% for two chops.) Taste juices and add salt and pepper if needed. The pan juices should cook down to a slightly syrupy consistency by the time the veal is ready. Pour any juices in the veal pan over the veggies , stir and serve. The trick is to time the cooking of the veggies so they do not over-cook while the veal is finishing in the oven. Veal should be cooked about medium – pink without red (medium rare is not as juicy or tasty in veal as it is in beef). The pan juices will have a better shine if you add some butter to the liquid when it first comes to the boil, but you can leave it out to reduce calories. The Soy Sauce adds a depth of flavor and helps with the color without making it taste like a Chinese dish. (Soy Sauce is a natural flavor enhancer that can be used in all sorts of dishes - moderation is the key, because it is so salty.)

This method of searing in a frying pan, then finishing in the oven works well with pork and chicken breasts – both of which can get really dry if left in liquid too long. I have also used it for really thick steaks, especially filet mignon, because it is easier to control the doneness in the oven than over direct heat.

Good luck with it – you may want to try the pan glazing methodology with a chicken breast first since veal is so damned expensive. I buy the chops whenever I find them on sale and stash them in the freezer to make a really quick and elegant meal.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Comfort Foods

ITALIAN SPAGHETTI SAUCE

Serves 8

This is the original Americanized version of spaghetti sauce that has been the favorite budget-conscious dish to feed a crowd for as long as I can remember. When I was a child, special seasonings and mushrooms were not readily available, so it was usually seasoned only with parsley – and tomato paste was often substituted for the tomato sauce. It is a versatile dish, freezes well and is easily made in very large quantities. The Lipton Soup is my own addition and it does add an indefinable something, but can be omitted whenever you don’t have any in the pantry. Sometimes I add ½ condensed beef broth if I don’t have the dried soup. It’s usually very good no matter what you do – just taste as it cooks and make adjustment to seasoning and thickness to suit your preference. The reason the peppers and mushrooms are added near the end of cooking is they cook fairly quickly and can get a little mushy if added too early. If you want to prepare it in a crock pot and let it cook unattended, just include them with the onions at the beginning.


2 lb. lean ground beef

4 teaspoon Italian Herb Seasoning Blend

1 medium onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

12 fennel seeds, slightly crushed

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried basil (or 1 tablespoon fresh)

1 15 oz. can petite diced tomatoes

1 15 oz. can tomato sauce

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 envelope Lipton Onion-Mushroom soup mix

1/2 cup water

1 medium green bell pepper chopped

8 oz. sliced fresh mushrooms (optional)

1/2 cup red wine (burgundy, merlot or Chianti)

Grated parmesan cheese

Brown the ground beef and drain all the fat and liquid. Add onion and garlic and cook a minute or two. Add tomatoes and tomato sauce and stir to mix thoroughly. Add a11 other ingredients except bell peppers, mushrooms and wine. When sauce begins to bubble, add wine and cook 2 minutes, then reduce heat to simmer and cook 2 or 3 hours, adding water as necessary as sauce thickens. Add the bell peppers during the last hour of cooking and add the mushrooms about 30 minutes before you plan to serve. Taste to correct seasoning – add salt and pepper if needed. Stir in 4 tablespoons parmesan cheese and heat a couple of minutes before ladling sauce on thin spaghetti or vermicelli, which has been cooked according to package directions. Serve with additional cheese and red pepper flakes.

For a change, substitute 1 pound of hot or mild Italian sausage for 1 pound of the ground beef.



BOLOGNESE SAUCE

This is the classic ragu (stew style sauce), with a predominantly meat taste instead of the tomato emphasis that is most common in Americanized Italian sauce dishes. It is heavy and filling best saved for a chilly or damp day, but is a wonderful alternative to the customary pasta sauce. You can make it extra special by substituting 1/2 pound ground veal for 1/2 pound of the beef, but ground veal is not always available.

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
1 medium bell pepper, finely chopped
1/4 cup each finely chopped celery and carrots
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 1/2 pound ground beef
1 pound ground pork
2 tablespoons Italian Seasoning
1 tablespoon Herbs De Provence (or 1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds)
1 cup whole milk
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 can Campbell's chicken broth
1 28 ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
1/2 pound sliced mushrooms
1 small can tomato sauce (if needed)
Salt and pepper to taste
Additional fresh herbs at end of cooking time (optional)
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onions, celery, carrots, bell pepper and garlic and sauté until vegetables soften, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, brown beef and pork in separate pan, breaking up meat with back of fork. Drain meat and add to vegetables. Add seasonings and stir well – simmer a few minutes. Increase heat to medium-high. Add milk and cook at low boil until all liquid evaporates (about 10 minutes). Add wine and cook at low boil for about 10 minutes. Add chicken broth and tomatoes with their juices. Bring mixture to boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered 1 hour 30 minutes, adding more broth or water if mixture is too thick and stirring occasionally, and skimming fat as it rises to the surface. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add mushrooms and optional tomato sauce if a more intense tomato flavor is desired. If available, add some fresh herbs – thyme, chopped basil, oregano, parsley. Cook at least 30 minutes longer, covered. Adjust salt and pepper seasoning. At this point, sauce can be held over low heat for up to an hour.

Cook pasta – spaghetti, linguine or fettuccine, drain and transfer to large warm bowl. Add some sauce and toss until well-coated. Sprinkle with Parmesan. Serve, passing a bowl or sauce and remaining Parmesan separately.

Makes 6 servings.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Need a Quick and Easy Dessert?

Coconut Pecan Poundcake with Praline Glaze

This moist cake is similar to Italian Crème Cake but doesn’t involve layers, so it is faster to assemble and easier to transport and serve. Don't try to use a Bundt pan with this - it will probably stick when you try to remove it.

Cake
1 package (18.5 ounces) butter recipe golden cake mix (Duncan Hines is good)
1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, at room temperature
4 large eggs
½ cup water
½ cup sugar
½ cup canola or other vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
2 tablespoons coconut rum
1 cup shredded sweetened coconut
1 cup pecans, chopped and lightly toasted

Preheat oven to 350 ° To prepare a 10” tube pan, cut a round of wax paper the size of the bottom, then trace the hole for the steeple and remove it to fit paper in bottom of pan. Use a little butter to help the paper adhere. Alternatively, you may grease and flour the pan, but I think the paper liner works better.

Toss pecans with 1 tablespoon of dry mix and set aside. Place remaining mix and all of the other ingredients except the coconut and pecans in a large mixing bowl. Blend with an electric mixer on low speed for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and continue to beat on medium speed for 2 minutes longer. Scrape the sides of the bowl again and mix a little longer, if necessary, to ensure the batter is well blended.

Set the mixer aside and stir in the coconut and pecans by hand, blending well.
Place the pan on a rack in the center of the oven.

Bake the cake for 40 to 50 minutes, testing after 40 minutes. The top of the cake should be golden brown and spring back when lightly touched. My preference for testing for doneness is to insert a toothpick in middle of one side—it’s done when there are few or no crumbs adhering to the pick when withdrawn.

When done, place on a wire rack to cool for about 20 minutes. Run a thin-bladed knife between the outside edge of the cake and the pan and the round the outside of the steeple to loosen the cake, then invert onto the rack. Continue to cool for about 1 hour, then invert onto a serving plate so that it is top side up.

Praline Glaze
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
½ cup whipping cream
½ cup butter (cut into 7 or 8 pieces)
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbs rum (optional)

Cook first 4 ingredients in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until butter melts and sugars dissolve. Increase heat, and bring to a boil; cook, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes or until slightly thickened. Stir in vanilla and rum. Cool slightly, then spread over cake. Garnish with toasted pecans, whole or toasted.

This moist cake starts with a cake mix for when you need something quick. The intense butter taste comes from the luscious butter cream icing that soaks into the cake—it’s best the day after it’s made, so plan ahead if you can. If not, it will still be great. Don’t substitute the fresh lemon or the real butter—that’s what makes it so good.

Lemon Pecan Pound Cake with Lemon Butter Icing


Cake Ingredients
1 package (18.5 ounces) butter recipe golden cake mix
1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, at room temperature
4 large eggs
¼ cup water
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon rind
½ cup sugar
½ cup canola or other vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon extract
1 cup pecans, chopped and lightly toasted

Cake Preparation
Preheat oven to 350 °. Prepare a 10” tube pan—cut a round of wax paper the size of the bottom, then trace the hole for the steeple and remove it to fit paper in bottom of pan. Use a little butter to help the paper adhere. Alternatively, you may grease and flour the pan, but I think the paper liner works better.
Place all of the ingredients except the pecans in a large mixing bowl. Blend with an electric mixer on low speed for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and continue to beat on medium speed for 2 minutes longer. Scrape the sides of the bowl again and mix a little longer, if necessary, to ensure the batter is well blended.
Set the mixer aside and stir in the pecans by hand, blending well.
Place the pan on a rack in the center of the oven.
Bake the cake for 40 to 50 minutes, testing after 40 minutes. The top of the cake should be golden brown and spring back when lightly touched. My preference for testing for doneness is to insert a toothpick in middle of one side—it’s done when there are few or no crumbs adhering to the pick when withdrawn.
When done, place on a wire rack to cool for about 20 minutes. Run a thin-bladed knife between the outside edge of the cake and the pan and the round the outside of the steeple to loosen the cake, then invert onto the rack. Continue to cool for about 1 hour, then invert onto a serving plate so that it is top side up.

Lemon Butter Icing

1 stick unsalted butter
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
¾ box 10x confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon lemon extract

Beat butter with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Beat in 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Gradually add sugar, beating well after each addition. Add remaining juice when the mixture begins to get very thick. Add rind, vanilla and lemon extract, and continue to beat until icing is good spreading consistency. Spread icing smoothly over cake – it will be about ¼ inch thick. Garnish with a lemon peel curl and strawberries. Cover with a carrier and refrigerate for several hours or overnight. Store up to a week at room temperature.